Unagi Midori

For those who appreciate the distinctive snap and rich aroma of Kansai-style eel kabayaki, Unagi Midori offers an inviting stop near Kyoto's Toji Temple. Unlike the steamed preparation common in eastern Japan, the unagi here is cooked via jiyaki—grilled directly over open heat without steaming—yielding a wonderfully crisp skin and tender meat. The savory char and rich natural oils pair seamlessly with the restaurant's subtly sweet tare sauce and freshly steamed rice.

A perennial favorite on the menu is hitsumamushi, which invites diners to enjoy eel across several distinct stages. The meal begins by tasting the crisp eel and seasoned rice on its own, followed by the addition of fragrant condiments like wasabi and green onion, before finishing with warm dashi poured over the remaining portion as a soothing ochazuke. For those seeking an even more generous portion, the double-tiered unaju conceals an extra layer of grilled eel between beds of rice, while the Unagi Don (Matsu) set arrives with a clear eel-liver soup (kimosui).

While waiting for the eel to grill, diners often start with a selection of classic appetizers. Deep-fried eel bone crackers (hone-senbei) deliver a satisfying, savory crunch, while umaki wraps grilled eel in dashi-rich rolled omelet and uzaku pairs eel with refreshing vinegar-cured cucumber. The drink list is equally thoughtful, offering bottled beers, hon-nama chilled sake, and an extensive collection of premium sweet potato and barley shochu—including sought-after labels like Sato and Mori Izo—served on the rocks or cut with water to complement the meal.

Despite its tucked-away setting in a residential neighborhood, the restaurant welcomes guests with attentive, unpretentious hospitality at lunch and dinner. Because service concludes whenever the day's fresh eel runs out, making a reservation in advance is well worth planning, especially when coordinating meals around sightseeing.